From all barrel-fermented, estate-grown grapes, about half Pisoni, half Soberanes, the 2024 Chardonnay Estate Cuvee is unfiltered and unfined and meant to be approachable in its youth. There’s texture and generosity on the medium-bodied palate of mineral-driven complexity, bright in fresh acidity and rounded layers of Meyer lemon, a linear, focused, energetic white that will broadly appeal. Drink now through 2032.

The 2024 Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard spent a year in barrel, larger format, and is a block-specific bottling from a rocky, granite-filled section of the site planted to old Wente and Montrachet clones, which goes mostly to Jeff Pisoni. Flinty, it’s a focused, tension-filled wine of tremendous energy and finesse, medium-bodied and richly layered with integrated acidity and lovely components of stone fruit and citrus, just an exceptional, well-balanced wine. Drink now through 2032.

A wider-sourced wine combining 50% Pisoni Vineyard grapes with others from Garys’, Soberanes, and WindRock, the 2024 Pinot Noir Estate Cuvée is a barrel-selection aged over 11 months in 45% new oak, native-fermented with no racking, fining, or filtration, 25% whole-cluster. Textural, it’s a tight, focused wine of rich dark cherry and spice, medium-bodied in weight, with well-integrated tannins and oak. Drink now through 2034.

From mostly Pisoni clone massal-selection grapes, the medium-bodied 2024 Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard sees more whole-cluster fermentation, the stems getting ripe from more balanced sun exposure in the vines. There’s an undeniable fruit purity here, a lightness to the wine that’s unexpected, with savory forest, chaparral, and sage nipping at the dark cherry fruit. Aging in half new oak over 11 months helped to round out any edges, the tannins presenting as supple and long, with baking and Asian spice competing for attention on the finish. This fantastic wine might be worth holding. Drink 2028-2038.

A juicy, exuberant wine from vines planted 30-some years ago, the 2024 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard sees nearly no whole-cluster fermentation and no racking, fining, nor filtration. A richly broad, layered, full-bodied style Pinot, it offers a dense core of dark fruit and graphite, with concentrated tannins, plenty of structure, and lasting splashes of spiced oak. With 11 months in barrel, 55% new, standard for this wine, I’d give it even more time in cellar and enjoy 2030-2040.

Just outstanding, the 2024 Syrah Soberanes Vineyard is from a low-yielding, late-ripening part of the vineyard that struggles to ripen, planted to Alban clones. Winemaker Jeff Pisoni goes 100% whole-cluster on this wine and relatively low on new oak, just 35% over 17 months. Dense, medium-bodied layers of bacon and smoky meat float along a continuum of juicy acidity, spicy garrigue, and shocks of white pepper, coming to a lovely floral finish, the tannins finely tuned and well-integrated. Just incredible. Drink now through 2036.

The barrel sample 2024 Syrah Susan’s Hill comes from the highest ridge at Pisoni Vineyards, a section that’s low-yielding, late-ripening, and beat up by the wind. The section also has more schist, contributing even greater complexity to the wine. Native-fermented with 85% whole-cluster, it goes into foudre for 22 months, given extra time in oak to tame the burly tannins for which the place is known. A medium to full-bodied beast in its youth, inspired by the wines of Cornas, there’s already compellingly beautiful notes of garrigue, smoked meat, and velvety leather on offer. Should be amazing on release.