The 2024 Chardonnay has the same palate presence and weight as it typically does, but this time with the notable addition of a grip of tannin that binds to the tongue and cheeks. The blend includes a block of own-rooted Wente clone planted in 1999, with blocks of Montrachet and old Wente planted in 2011. That makes for quite a dynamic, harmonious combination. White flowers, apricot, bitter spices and white pepper saturate deeply through the intense, strict finish. This is massively complex and utterly delicious. Quite a positive sign for Chardonnay in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

The 2024 Pinot Noir Pisoni Estate is deep and structured, with potent dark fruit and serious intensity. I first tasted the 2024 a few months back, at which point it was almost painfully tannic. Thankfully, that structure has integrated and resolved to form a fleshier, more generous mouthfeel. It slowly blossoms in the glass to reveal shades of exotic spice, macerated cherry, black sage and subtle sea-spray notes. A mocha-like richness settles in through the finish. The Pisoni Pinot is always on the larger side. Today, the 2024 is also on the monolithic side. Judging by its improvement over the last few months, I would anticipate positive evolution over the coming months and years.

The 2024 Chardonnay Estate Cuvée sizzles with tension and linear energy, impressing with its sense of cool climate drive and forward motion. Orange oil, chamomile, chalk and mint kick across the palate, wrapping around a core of sweet pear fruit that feels so fresh yet maintains pliancy and gentle grip. The 2024 has such character.

The 2024 Chardonnay Soberanes Vineyard is heady, floral, laden with citrus pith bitterness and buzzing with salty, enlivened acids. There’s a sense of a coiled-up springiness here, building in the glass before the wine explodes through the finish. The 2024 possesses generous texture and also lightness on its feet—a super-appealing combination. I loved this from barrel, and the finished wine is every bit as great. Aging for 17 months in 30% new oak followed by 5 months in stainless steel yields a wine of exceptional focus.

The 2024 Pinot Noir Estate Cuvée leads the charge with brightness and tension before delving into a densely packed, mouthful of a wine. New leather, savory herbs, crunchy blueberry fruit, mocha and purple-toned flowers open hesitantly, clamping down on a driven, linear finish. This is definitely a wine for the cellar; it’s only just beginning to release some of its inner tension.

The 2024 Pinot Noir Soberanes Vineyard is flashy and surprisingly tropical on the bouquet, but it’s wound up like a ball of rubber bands on the palate. Distinctive notes of mango, rosewater, white cherry, sweet spices and vanilla recede quickly as a kick of fine, forceful tannin clamps down on the finish. Hopefully time will make the 2024 feel a bit less compact.

The 2024 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard opens with a gamey, sauvage personality of grilled meat, animal blood, iron and graphite before counteracting that with a dense core of black fruit. Concentrated and weighted, the 2024 marches slowly and confidently across the palate with a sense of reserved power. It packs on more and more layers in the glass, but it’s a very potent wine today. Hands off for now.

The 2024 Syrah Soberanes Vineyard explodes from the glass with purple florals, eucalyptus, mocha, cured olive, blood orange, brambly berries and a slight whiff of animal funk. The 100% whole clusters completely integrate into the wine’s fabric, vibrating and buzzing with energy and lift. Delicate and finessed, the 2024 is a brooding infant that displays the hallmark mineral inflection and muscular tannins this site so easily delivers. That said, it’s actually approachable at this stage. Aging for 17 months in 25% new French oak is spot on. This is clearly one of the most complete wines of the vintage in the Santa Lucia Highlands.