All from the southernmost estate, first planted by Gary Pisoni in 1982. There is one bottling of this each year; it comes from three or four different blocks out of the dozen planted here. It tends to come from upper-elevation sites, which impart more weight and tannin. Concentrated with red and black fruits, flourishes of florals, and oak fermentation tanks, this wine benefits from concentration and tannin. Violets and salty minerality alight the glass. The palate glistens with great savoury herbals, chicory, and clove. Spiced and elegant, a true classic example of the SLH character.

Taut and fresh Chardonnay, all estate fruit, a blend of the (majority) Pisoni old vineyard material and the Sobranes vineyard, 08 planting a different Wente clone Chardonnays, that lead to five different picks at different ripeness levels. One year in 30% new French oak, full malolactic, no stirring. It’s classic and very well-made, accentuating stone fruits, citrus, and poached pear.

50% Pisoni, as well as choice SLH estate sites: Sobranes, Garys’ and WindRock Vineyard, all from the southern end of the appellation. This wine is completely 100% free-run. This has about 20% whole cluster; there’s great harmony here, with pops of pomegranate, salt, and violet floral tones. The palate is classic and elevated, fruit-driven California Pinot Noir, with savoury complexity, garrigue and exotic spices to finish.

Winemaker Jeff Pisoni uses 40% whole cluster. In an effort to accent the site’s floral tones with a savoury depth. There’s a floral element to this site, and red florals soar here, lilac and rose petals. Salty and crisp, with tight row spacing, which was a late adaptation in the region. Red fleshy strawberries, pops of blood orange peel, and sea salt, lively, crisp and fresh, that balance the fruit and saline intensity.

From the now-famed vineyard, comprised of 50 acres, dead centre of the SLH appellation. It was planted in 1996 by the two Garys who went to high school together and have become synonymous with the region. For Jeff Pisoni, it’s about the concentration of fruit, showing as a laser focus on red fruits, which are a strength of the Garys’ massale selection of Pisoni clones, a mystery field selection, with somewhat nefarious Burgundian roots. Dark fruits accented by savoury bay leaf, black sage and the region’s persistent saline minerality.